LFW: Wintle

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Wintle authentic luxury

Where: Somerset House
Joanne Black style: Sharon Wauchob jacket and trousers, Wolford body, Alaia ankle boots and a Chanel bag

Designer Jsen Wintle can make any man look great. Over the last five years he has established a reputation for creating authentic luxury menswear using hand tailoring, rich fabrics and amazing precision.

Style certainly stretched beyond the catwalk at this show. Sat front row, I had a great view of Jefferson Hack – looking cool in a grey jacket with interesting elbow patches – and Harold Tillman, who was clapping vigorously as a range of the double breasted grey and black tux suits and textured grey mid-length coats came into view.

I loved the velvet and corduroy trousers and the use of brushed, felted, mottled and piled finishes, which gave traditional tailoring a fabulous twist. The limited edition eye wear designed using vintage materials honey horn and mottled German resin also held my attention. Jsen certainly gave us the right balance of preppy, sporty and vintage.

I know what I’ll be dressing my male clients in next season!

LFW: Issa

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Issa London Autumn/Winter 2011

Where: Somerset House
Joanne Black style: Jitrois leather leggings, Golden Goose check shirt, black Miu Miu boots, a Brunello Cucinelli cardigan and Prada jacket

Brazilian-born Issa knows how to put on a show. Her star-studded audience – which included Princess Beatrice and boyfriend Dave Clark on the front row – were treated to a collection of leather trousers, beautiful red capes, jersey and stretch wool outfits and wannabe red carpet dresses.

The clothes, however, told a very British story. Prints narrated a day in the capital – among the building and bad habits – and the grey and overcast weather influenced the autumn/winter colour palette. People watching also played a huge part in the designs. Issa describes being inspired by taking a black cab around London – and by watching faces at The Wolseley, Scott’s, China Tang, Annabel’s and Dover Street Market.

As well as fabulous pieces – model Alice Dellal dazzled in a halterneck dress and I already have my eye on the floor-length asymmetric black dress for my upcoming Oscar party – there was some great statement hair on show. Barry Martin and stylist Malcolm Edwards should be applauded for their attention to detail.

LFW: Osman

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Osman

Where: Somerset House
Joanne Black style: Jitrois leather leggings, Sergio Rossi over-the-knee boots, Zadig & Voltaire polo neck, Sharon Wauchob coat, Chanel bag, and Damiani earrings

There are only a few things that will get me out of bed the day after a post-Bafta party – and fresh designer Osman’s autumn/winter collection is one of them.

What this man doesn’t know about jersey just isn’t worth knowing. When four models opened the show in beautiful purple jersey dresses – draped in a Grecian style – I knew we would be in for a treat. Osman, who believes Cate Blanchett would be his ideal customer, loves strong, stylish female figures with a sense of adventure. This certainly came across in his show. Hot pinks added a splash of confident colour to the runway – Osman even joined in with bright pink socks and a shirt – a striking dresses, tops and trousers showed just how versatile jersey fabric can be.

Best look of the show? It has to be the grey check and leather jacket, worn over an icy grey long jersey skirt. It was elegant, chic and worthy of space in any wardrobe.

LFW: Mark Fast

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Inspired by Dimitri Chiparus' sculptures

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Signature Knitwear by Mark Fast

Where: Flowers Cellars, Covent Garden
Joanne Black Style: Prada Jacket, Zadig & Voltaire Jeans and polo neck, Ash boots and an Alexander Wang bag

The man who put plus size models on the catwalk is back. And with women such as Crystal Renn taking to the runway, Mark Fast certainly knows how to show big means beautiful.

If you’re going to wear knitwear, it has to be Mark Fast knitwear. Influenced by the bronze sculptures of Dimitri Chiparus, the colours of coral and sea creatures and winter warmth, Fast’s Autumn/winter 2010 collection makes great use of his signature elastomeric yarns, which are designed to cling to anything that moves. But as well as his short, tight and stretchy style, Fast fashion now includes waterfall scarf trails, capes, full skirts and sari-style stoles.

It seems Sarah Brown, the Prime Minister’s wife, approves of Fast’s sexy knitwear. Sat on the front row at the show, she looked lovely in a skirt by eco-chic label People Tree and v-neck sweater by Marks & Spencer, which she dressed up with a large stone pendant from jewellery label La Diosa.

Fast designs clothes for the ‘woman who knows exactly what she wants and takes risks’. That’s why if you’re looking to stand out this autumn you’ll need to slip into one of his colourful body con knit dresses.

LFW: David Koma

Where: Freemasons Hall, WC2
Joanne Black style: Black jeans and cashmere jumper by Zadig & Voltaire, Joseph belt, leather Wunderkind jacket, black Sergio Rossi boots and an Alexander Wang bag.

Georgia born David Koma is a 24-year-old with talent. His geometry-inspired debut collection was daring and delightful – and did not disappoint.

If I had a wardrobe filled with Koma’s body con dresses, I’d be a happy woman. I love his sculptured shapes, tight-fitting and heavily embellished pieces – with pure wool, leather and suede materials and asymmetric detailing. The runway is certainly a colourful place with this young designer around – he makes great use of colour and his stained glass statement jewellery is fabulous.

Fame suits Koma. He’s gone from strength to strength since winning the Harrods Design award with his 2009 MA Graduate Collection at Central Saint Martins. I’ll be strutting my stuff in one of his masterpieces soon – and you can too after a trip to Browns – or www.davidkoma.com. I can’t wait until his next show – Alexander Wang has big competition.